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What’s the difference between the Scarpa Instinct Models?
Fit, Rubber, and Closures Explained
Introduction
The Scarpa Instinct line is a family of high-performance climbing shoes. At a glance, they might look alike, but each one has its own unique strengths and style on the wall. Here’s a quick overview of the models broken into four groups to help you understand what’s actually different.
- Instinct VS (Men’s)
- Instinct VS (Women’s)
- Instinct VSR
- Instinct VSR LV
- Instinct S
- Instinct Lace (Men’s)
- Instinct Lace (Women’s)
Knowing which one is best can be confusing. We’ll help clear things up to help you get the right shoe for you.
Instinct VS (Men’s)
Designed for precision and support
The OG. Blending a curved, asymmetrical last with a softer construction and a thin XS Edge sole, the Instinct VS delivers exceptional precision and support, while maintaining good sensitivity.
KEY TRAITS
- Outsole: Vibram® XS Edge (3.5mm)
- Fit: High Volume
- Velcro closure for fast on/off
- Moderately Asymmetric
- Moderately Downturned
- Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and technical face climbing
What is different?
The Instinct VS and the Instinct Lace Men’s are the only Instincts with XS Edge rubber. They will outperform the other models on vertical climbs with sharp incut holds. The sole will be more durable and offer more support and grip when heavily loaded.
Who Is This Shoe For?
Climbers who want a shoe that excels at edging on tiny holds. Ideal if you prefer a supportive shoe and climb a lot of slab, vertical, or slightly overhanging walls. These are excellent on sharp rock.
Climbing overhangs, slopers, or volumes? Read on…
Instinct VSR, VS W, VSR LV
Same structure, but different sole & fit
We’ve grouped the VSR, VS Women’s, & VSR LV together, and distinct from the Instinct VS. These shoes all use the same structure and moderately aggressive shape as the Instinct VS, but they have an XS Grip 2 sole. Small difference? Not exactly; the sole is the single biggest factor in a shoe’s performance.
Key traits
- Outsole: Vibram® XS Grip 2 (3.5 mm)
- Fit:
- VSR – High Volume
- VS Women’s – Low Volume
- VSR LV – Lowest Volume
- Softer feel
- Better for smearing, less support for edging
- Still great for toe hooks and aggressive heel hooks
- Moderately Asymmetric
- Moderately Downturned
- Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing, and steep climbing
What is Different?
These three models will be the softest and most sensitive, ideal for steep climbs, smearing, & comp-style climbing. The only difference between the three models is fit (see above) and colour.
Who Is This Shoe For?
Perfect for climbers who want sensitivity and excellent friction on steep terrain and comp style climbs. The VS Women’s and VSR LV are great for climbers with narrow feet – no more baggy heels.
Instinct S
Minimal but powerful
The Instinct S is a slipper, which means no Velcro, no laces, just pure sock-like performance, making it the most flexible shoe in the Instinct family. Its CTS technology delivers precise control. The soft M50 rubber relieves pressure on the toes while maintaining firmness in the toe and edge areas, thanks to its connected support through the heel. The result is outstanding strength and precision on small footholds.
Key Traits
- Outsole: Vibram® XS Grip 2 (3.5 mm)
- Fit: High Volume
- Heel: M50 and Vibram® XS Grip 2
- Ultra-soft M50 rubber across the top of the foot for great toe-hooking
- Stiffest sole and forefoot, while keeping sensitive overall design
- Slipper style = fast slip on
- Standout performance on small footholds and powerful hooks
What is different?
No closure system – it’s a slipper, but it fits surprisingly securely. The shoe as a whole is still quite supple but the forefoot is stiffer than the other Instincts.
The M50 rubber scum patch atop the toes is super soft, offering excellent grip for toe hooks.
The Instinct S has more tension in the slingshot (the band of rubber that wraps around the achilles) to help lock it to your foot without a closure. This does mean that the shoe benefits from being fit tightly to avoid dead space in the heel.
Who Is This Shoe For?
Designed for indoor climbers, competition boulderers, and seasoned outdoor boulderers on steep, technical routes. A great second shoe for volume-heavy sessions, perfect for those who prioritize precise, refined footwork.
Instinct Lace (M / W)
Lace up for an adjustable fit
The final group is different primarily in the closure system. With a much more adjustable fit, they excel at longer sport pitches, and trad-style climbing.
Like many gendered shoes, the women’s version features a lower volume fit and a softer rubber sole — making the performance quite different between the men’s and women’s models.
Key traits
- Outsole:
- Men’s – Vibram® XS Edge (3.5mm)
- Women’s – Vibram® XS Grip 2 (3.5mm)
- Fit:
- Men’s – High Volume
- Women’s – Low Volume
- Lace system for ultimate adjustability and dialed in fit
- Perfect for sport climbing, technical face climbing, and great for bouldering
What is different?
Laces! This allows for a more refined fit, and can actually stiffen up the shoe by adding more uniform tension across the whole structure.
Who Is This Shoe For?
The Instinct lace models suit precise climbers tackling technical face climbs, techy sport routes, and bouldering, offering an adjustable fit.
The women’s model, having the softer sole, will do better on steeper terrain, polished holds, and smears.
Summary
At the end of the day, all the Scarpa Instinct models are great- just in different ways. Think of them like different tools in your kit. Shoes won’t make you stronger, but the right pair can boost your technique and confidence on challenging holds.
Not convinced yet? Try on a few pairs- or better yet, borrow some from your gym buddies while they take a break (they probably won’t mind). We’d love to see you stop by the OR Gear Shop, so don’t hesitate to give them a spin.
Happy sending!
| Model | Best For | Rubber | Fit |
|---|---|---|---|
| VS (M) | Edging Sport Climbing Technical Face Climbing | XS Edge | Mid-stiff High Volume Velcro Closure |
| VS (W) | Steep Terrain or Comp Style Smears | XS Grip 2 | Mid-soft Low Volume Velcro Closure |
| VSR | Steep Terrain or Comp Style Smears | XS Grip 2 | Mid-soft High Volume Velcro Closure |
| VSR LV | Steep Terrain or Comp Style Smears | XS Grip 2 | Mid-soft Very Low Volume Velcro Closure |
| S | Precise Footholds Powerful Hooks Comp Bouldering | XS Grip 2 | Stiff High Volume Slipper Fit |
| Lace (M) | Edging Sport Climbing & Techy Trad Climbing Technical Face Climbing | XS Edge | Stiff High Volume Lace Closure |
| Lace (W) | Steep Terrain Sport Climbing & Techy Trad Climbing Technical Face Climbing | XS Grip 2 | Mid-soft Low Volume Lace Closure |
