Using The Pill
The Pill has four major types of holds:
Edges
Each edge depth is clearly labelled (6, 8, 10, 20 mm), and can be used in both a flat and an incut mode.
Flat Edge
By clipping both strands of the cord, the edge will sit flat.
Incut Edge
By clipping only the front strand of the cord, the edge will sit incut and will feel much more positive.
Pinches
The primary pinches are 85 mm, incut and slopey.
Incut 85mm Pinch
Slopey 85mm Pinch
There are secondary pinches that may be less obvious, found on the 10/20 mm edge face.
40 mm Incut Pinch
Clip both strands and adjust load so that the cord sits as shown.
20 mm Flat Pinch
Monos
Each edge depth has a corresponding mono, which can also be used in incut or flat mode. Once you start to load the mono, The Pill will naturally equalize at the correct angle.
Fair warning – the 6 and 8 mm monos will not feel at all positive in flat mode.
Flat Mono
By clipping both strands of the cord, the mono will sit flat.
Incut Mono
By clipping only the front strand of the cord, the mono will sit incut, and will feel much more positive.
Jug
The Jug is one of the more and unique features of The Pill, but is extremely useful. It can be used for one-arm work to train, rehab, or warm up your biceps, shoulders, back, etc. A pair of pills can be hung from a pull-up bar or rack and used for pullups or two-handed training like a hangboard.
The jug should always be used with both strands clipped.
Training
The Pill is designed for training. The edge depths match what you’ll find in most training programs, and offer a good range for strength training.
Training safely and effectively requires controlled load. While you can sling The Pill over your foot and load it to train during travel or to warm up at the crag, we strongly recommend hanging weight from The Pill, or using a load gauge to control your training load.
Warm up
The Pill is portable enough to bring to the gym, the crag, or the boulders and use for warm-up. Most gyms have weights and loading pins that you can use for a controlled warm up routine.
If you’re outside, sling it around your foot and load progressively.
Rehab
Just like with training, controlled load is everything in rehab. Seek qualified advice on injury rehabilitation, and ask how you can use The Pill to add controlled loading to your rehab routine.